Transforming Departures

Last day in Edmonton; last coffee shop stop. Iconoclast Koffeehuis is every bit as pretentious as it sounds, but it’s the scrappy, warts-and-all pretention I mostly enjoy. It occupies a cavernous warehouse space that would fit three Second Cup locations, yet there are maybe 10 tables in all, and hardly any décor save for three…

Transforming Edmonton

Trigger Warning: Tales of irresponsible and potentially self-destructive adolescent behaviour So now it’s Edmonton, the city of my youth. At 41, a return is bewildering and bittersweet. I find myself touched and reassured by the oddest things: a grey rabbit loping through the concrete heart of downtown, or a magpie darting through the tarmac of…

Transforming Travel

“So kiss me and smile for me Tell me that you’ll wait for me Hold me like you’ll never let me go…” I’m front-loading all my missives this week, because 12 hours from now we’ll be in transit, and our first stop will likely be too busy to permit much posting. So far, my loyal…